Let’s start with some basics.
A few years ago.. (Did I just say that in the last blog post?).. I started deep dive learning sewing techniques and all things sewing on YouTube. I still do it today, and actually find watching sewing videos as enjoyable as a good Netflix series. Go figure. One of the sources that I found was a number of videos on Karl Lagerfeld, the House of Chanel, and the couture seamstresses and artisans that work behind the scenes for each season’s beauty. I actually can not find that series again now, no matter my search terms. So, if any of you out there find it, or know of it, please send me the name of the series!
In one particular episode, a seamstress is endeavoring to cut and sew a long draped velvet gown. She said something that stood out then, and will always stay with me. She said, as she studied the way the fabric was draping on the dressform before the fabric had even been cut, “There is always a better way”.
Huh? A master of fabric and sewing, that does so for CHANEL and Karl Lagerfeld was asking herself, how WILL she sew this? She did not say, or insinuate, “This is how you sew this. There is but one best method for this type of project and for this fabric”.
Sew….. So, if there are multiple to many ways to sew something for a desired result, what are we working with here? We are really working with fibers. Fibers that are made into threads, and threads that are made, (woven or knit) into fabrics. To learn to sew, is really to learn how to work with the nature of the fabric. The nature of the fabric is determined by the quality of the fibers that make the thread.
With that in mind, I’m going to post here some uber basics. Even as I know them, I find it endlessly interesting to review. This is going to be a long post. But here, we will have a one-stop-shop for quick review later as needed.
Here we GO!
WHAT ARE SOME DIFFERENT BASIC TYPES OF FABRICS? HOW MIGHT THEY BE USED?
There are many different types of fabrics, each with their own unique characteristics, properties, and uses. Here are some of the most common types of fabrics:
Cotton: This is a soft, breathable, and versatile fabric that is widely used in clothing and home textiles. It's easy to care for and comes in a range of weights and weaves.
Polyester: A synthetic fabric that is known for its durability, wrinkle resistance, and resistance to fading. It's often used in athletic wear and outdoor gear.
Silk: A luxurious fabric that is known for its smooth, lustrous surface and draping qualities. It's often used in high-end clothing, such as dresses and suits.
Wool: A warm and durable fabric that is made from the fleece of sheep. It's often used in cold-weather clothing and blankets.
Linen: A lightweight and breathable fabric that is made from the fibers of the flax plant. It's often used in summer clothing and home textiles.
Rayon: A soft and lightweight fabric that is made from the cellulose fibers of wood pulp. It's often used as a substitute for silk or cotton.
Nylon: A synthetic fabric that is known for its strength, elasticity, and durability. It's often used in activewear and outdoor gear.
Leather: A durable and versatile material that is made from the hides of animals, such as cows or goats. It's often used in jackets, bags, and shoes.
Denim: A sturdy and durable cotton fabric that is used in jeans and other casual wear.
Velvet: A luxurious fabric that is made from silk or synthetic fibers and has a dense pile. It's often used in formalwear and home decor.
WHAT IS A WOVEN FABRIC? WHY USE A WOVEN?
A woven fabric is a type of textile that is made by interlacing two sets of yarn or threads at right angles to each other. The threads that run lengthwise are called the warp, while the threads that run crosswise are called the weft or filling.
Woven fabrics are made using a loom, which is a machine that holds the warp threads taut while the weft threads are woven in and out of the warp threads to create the fabric. There are many different types of woven fabrics, including cotton, silk, wool, and polyester, among others. Each type of fabric has its own unique characteristics, such as texture, strength, and durability, that make it suitable for different applications.
Woven fabrics are commonly used in fashion for a variety of applications due to their durability, versatility, and ability to hold their shape. Some common uses of woven fabrics in fashion include:
Clothing: Woven fabrics are often used to make clothing items such as dresses, blouses, trousers, and skirts due to their ability to drape and hold their shape.
Accessories: Woven fabrics can also be used to make accessories such as scarves, hats, and bags.
Outerwear: Woven fabrics are commonly used in outerwear such as jackets and coats due to their ability to provide warmth and protection from the elements.
Home decor: Woven fabrics can be used for home decor applications such as curtains, upholstery, and bedding due to their durability and ability to hold up to wear and tear.
Overall, woven fabrics are a versatile and popular choice for a variety of fashion and home decor applications due to their durability, texture, and aesthetic appeal.
DO WOVEN FABRICS STRETCH?
Woven fabrics do not stretch as much as knitted fabrics because their Fibers are tightly interlaced. However, some types of woven fabrics can stretch to a certain degree depending on the type of Fiber, the weave structure, and the Finishing processes used during manufacturing.
For example, fabrics made from natural Fibers such as cotton or linen may have a slight degree of stretch, while fabrics made from synthetic Fibers such as polyester or nylon may have a higher degree of stretch. Additionally, fabrics with a looser weave structure or those that have been treated with special Finishing processes such as stretching or heat setting may also have some stretch to them.
Overall, woven fabrics are not known for their stretchiness compared to knitted fabrics, but they can still have some degree of stretch depending on the speciFic factors mentioned above.
What is a knit fabric and what are the qualities?
WHAT IS A KNIT FABRIC?
Knit fabric is a type of textile that is made by interlocking a series of loops of yarn or thread using knitting needles or machines. Unlike woven fabrics, which are made by interlacing two sets of threads perpendicular to each other, knit fabrics are made by creating loops in a single set of threads. This makes knit fabrics stretchy and flexible, allowing them to conform to the shape of the body.
Some of the qualities of knit fabrics include:
Stretchiness: Knit fabrics are known for their stretchiness, which makes them comfortable to wear and allows for freedom of movement.
Breathability: Because of the way they are constructed, knit fabrics tend to be more breathable than woven fabrics, making them ideal for warmer climates.
Softness: Knit fabrics are often softer and more comfortable against the skin than woven fabrics, making them a popular choice for clothing items like T-shirts and sweaters.
Drape: Knit fabrics tend to drape well, which means they can be used to create garments with a flowing, flattering fit.
Durability: While knit fabrics can be prone to snagging or unraveling if not cared for properly, they are generally durable and can withstand a lot of wear and tear.
FROM WHAT FIBERS CAN KNIT FABRICS BE MADE?
Knit fabrics can be made from a variety of fibers, both natural and synthetic. Some common fibers used in knit fabrics include:
Cotton: Cotton is a natural fiber that is soft, breathable, and comfortable to wear. It is often used in knit fabrics for T-shirts, dresses, and other casual clothing items.
Wool: Wool is a natural fiber that is warm, soft, and has natural stretch. It is often used in knit fabrics for sweaters, scarves, and other cold-weather clothing items.
Silk: Silk is a natural fiber that is smooth, shiny, and luxurious. It is often used in knit fabrics for high-end fashion items like dresses and tops.
Polyester: Polyester is a synthetic fiber that is strong, durable, and easy to care for. It is often used in knit fabrics for activewear and other performance clothing items.
Nylon: Nylon is a synthetic fiber that is strong, lightweight, and abrasion-resistant. It is often used in knit fabrics for athletic wear, leggings, and hosiery.
Rayon: Rayon is a synthetic fiber that is soft, breathable, and comfortable to wear. It is often used in knit fabrics for casual clothing items like T-shirts and dresses.
There are also many other fibers used in knit fabrics, such as acrylic, spandex, and bamboo, among others.
WHAT ARE KNIT FABRICS GENERALLY USED FOR IN FASHION?
Knit fabric is a versatile material that can be used for a wide range of fashion applications. Some of the most common uses for knit fabric in fashion include:
T-shirts: Knit fabric is often used to make T-shirts, as it is soft, comfortable, and stretchy.
Sweaters: Knit fabric is ideal for making sweaters, as it can be woven in a variety of patterns and textures, and is warm and cozy.
Leggings: Knit fabric is often used to make leggings, as it is stretchy and conforms to the body, making for a comfortable and flattering fit.
Dresses: Knit fabric can be used to make dresses of all styles, from casual T-shirt dresses to formal evening gowns.
Activewear: Knit fabric is often used for activewear, as it is breathable, moisture-wicking, and allows for a full range of movement.
Undergarments: Knit fabric is often used to make undergarments, such as bras and panties, as it is soft and comfortable against the skin.
Accessories: Knit fabric can be used to make a variety of accessories, such as scarves, hats, and gloves, as it is warm and cozy.
Overall, knit fabric is a popular choice for fashion designers and consumers alike, thanks to its versatility, comfort, and style.
WHAT DOES IT MEAN WHEN A WOVEN FABRIC HAS LYCRA OR SPANDEX IN IT?
HOW CAN A WOVEN FABRIC BECOME STRETCHY?
When woven fabric has lycra or spandex in it, it means that the fabric has been blended with a synthetic fiber that is known for its stretchiness and flexibility. Lycra and spandex are both brand names for the same synthetic fiber, which is made from a type of polyurethane.
When woven fabrics are blended with lycra or spandex, they become stretchier and more flexible, which allows for a greater range of movement and a more comfortable fit. This makes them ideal for clothing items that need to be form-fitting or that require a lot of movement, such as athletic wear, leggings, and jeans.
The amount of lycra or spandex in the fabric can vary depending on the desired level of stretchiness. A fabric with a higher percentage of lycra or spandex will be more stretchy and flexible, while a fabric with a lower percentage will have less stretch. Generally, a fabric with around 2-5% lycra or spandex is considered to be a good balance between stretchiness and durability.
WHAT IS WOVEN FABRIC WITH 2-5% LYCRA OR SPANDEX GENERALLY USED FOR IN FASHION?
Woven fabric with 2-5% lycra or spandex is commonly used in fashion for clothing items that require a greater range of movement or a more comfortable, form-fitting fit. Here are some examples:
Jeans: Woven fabric with lycra or spandex is often used to make denim jeans, as it allows for a more comfortable and flexible fit.
Pants and trousers: Woven fabric with lycra or spandex can also be used to make other types of pants and trousers, such as dress pants or casual chinos, as it provides a more comfortable and flexible fit.
Skirts: Woven fabric with lycra or spandex can be used to make skirts of all styles, from pencil skirts to maxi skirts, as it allows for a more comfortable and flattering fit.
Dresses: Woven fabric with lycra or spandex can also be used to make dresses of all styles, from casual sundresses to formal evening gowns, as it allows for a more comfortable and form-fitting fit.
Jackets and blazers: Woven fabric with lycra or spandex can be used to make jackets and blazers, as it provides a more comfortable and flexible fit, especially in areas like the arms and shoulders.
Overall, woven fabric with lycra or spandex is a popular choice for fashion designers and consumers alike, thanks to its ability to provide a more comfortable, flexible, and flattering fit for a wide range of clothing items.
WHAT IS A JACQUARD FABRIC, AND HOW IS IT MADE?
Jacquard fabric is a type of woven fabric that is characterized by intricate patterns and designs woven into the fabric. It is named after Joseph Marie Jacquard, a French inventor who invented a mechanical loom that could create complex patterns in fabric.
Jacquard fabric is made using a special loom that has the ability to create intricate patterns using a series of punched cards. These punched cards are fed into the loom, which then weaves the threads according to the pattern on the card. This allows for a wide range of patterns and designs to be created in the fabric, including floral motifs, geometric shapes, and intricate borders.
Jacquard fabric can be made from a variety of fibers, including cotton, silk, wool, and synthetic fibers. The fibers are typically dyed before weaving, which allows for a wide range of colors to be used in the fabric.
One of the key features of jacquard fabric is its depth and texture. The intricate patterns and designs woven into the fabric create a three-dimensional effect that can be both visually stunning and tactile. This makes it a popular choice for high-end fashion items such as dresses, jackets, and skirts, as well as for home decor items like upholstery and curtains.
Overall, jacquard fabric is a beautiful and intricate type of woven fabric that is known for its intricate patterns, rich colors, and unique texture.
There is so much more to share and learn. In our next post, I will share some information and my own personal thoughts on preparing fabric for sewing, including pre-washing.
Much Love,